Preventing Fire Blight Tree Disease

What is Fire Blight Tree Disease?

Fire blight is a hard to control disease of fruit trees like pear and apple. It is caused by bacteria, its effects are devastating and it leaves a behind a burnt appearance; this is where it gets its name from. In addition to fruit trees, it attacks ornamental plants like roses, cotoneaster crabapple, loquat, hawthorn, pyracantha, and mountain ash. Unlike dieback, fire blight attacks flowers first, twigs next and finally branches.

Signs of this Disease

The first signs of fire blight usually appear in early spring, when the weather is humid and rainy and when temperatures rise above sixty degrees. Flowers infected by the disease turn black and die. The disease moves through the branch, infecting and killing young twigs. These dead twigs go black and curl over like a shepherd’s hook.” Affected branches look fire scorched as their leaves are black and wilted. Cankers, which are slightly sunken areas show up on the branches and the trunk. Fire blight affects many parts of the plant including leaves, stems, fruits and blossoms. In wet spring weather, a translucent milk-like, sticky liquid that contains multitudes of bacteria oozes out of the infected part of plant.

Fire blight spreads effortlessly in a lot of different ways and through different means, they include:

• Insects, birds, and animals transmit it from one plant to another.
• Rain drops splashes the bacteria among plants.
• Plants make contact all the time, that way the bacteria can move from an infected plant to an uninfected plant.
• Gardening tools can transmit the disease when gardening or even when watering. Tools should be sterilized after use on an infected plant.

Late spring or early summer is the maximum time of risk of infection. At this time, the bacterial emerges from its dormant period and the cankers become more pronounced. Infected branches should never be left on the ground when pruned, they should be immediately burnt or put in a bin as placing them on the ground could infect the surrounding bushes or trees.

Commonly Affected Plants

In your home garden, fire blight can be very damaging to pear and apple trees especially pear trees as they are very susceptible. Some pear trees, (e.g. Bradford) are unaffected by the disease but can develop it when the environment is advantageous to disease development. Some plants in the rose family such as the Rosacea, can be infected with fire blight, others include; mountain ash, photinia, crabapple, hawthorn, loquat, pyracantha, spirea, cotoneaster and quince.

Prevention & Treatment

Fire blight has no cure thereby making prevention very important. Though there are many ways to control fire blight, these methods are not 100% effective. Some fire blight control methods include; making use of recommended sanitation measures and cultural practices, choosing tolerant varieties, and applying bactericides and insecticides.

Bactericides & Insecticides: Bacteria enters plants through fresh wounds, blossoms or natural openings, it is then spread by rain and insects such as ants, bees, aphids, beetles and flies who transfer the bacteria to blossoms. Insect control can decrease the spread of bacteria, however, insecticides shouldn’t be used when plants are blooming. To learn more about disease and pest prevention oils, visit: 72tree.com/using-dormant-horticultural-oil-treat-tree-insect-infestations/

Sanitation Measures & Cultural Practices: all infected plant parts should be removed and destroyed, and all pruning tools should be disinfected with household bleach and water (one part bleach and nine parts water). This will lead to a reduction in the spread of the disease. Cuts should be made at least 8 to 12 inches beneath the infected tissue.

Pears: Pear trees can be treated with a copper fungicide spray (pre-bloom) and a streptomycin spray in bloom. The first spray should be applied immediately the flowers open and should be repeated every three to four days. There should be a minimum of fifty days between the application of streptomycin and harvesting of fruits.

Apples: If fire blight was severe the year before, then copper fungicide should be sprayed just before bloom. All branches and spurs should be thoroughly covered with streptomycin spray which is the recommended bactericide for apple trees in bloom. It should be sprayed first at the beginning of bloom and should be repeated every three to four daysas long as there are flowers.

Crabapple: copper fungicides are also used to treat crabapple trees. In other to lessen bacterial inoculum on the exterior of twigs and spurs, they should be applied before and after bloom. It shouldn’t be applied when plants are blooming as it may cause fruit abortion or russeting on the plant.

Arborists Discuss Controlling Tree Disease

Scheduling an annual inspection of your landscape is another way to prevent and treat tree disease. When you detect that something has gone awry with your trees and plants, contact your local tree professional. Properly identifying and treating the issue is key to halting it and preventing future occurrences.

Sources:
http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/pests/plant_pests/veg_fruit/hgic2208.html
https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/BP/BP-30-W.pdf

 
This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/preventing-fire-blight-tree-disease/

Signs of a Diseased Tree – Dieback, Tree Suckers & Water Sprouts

Spruce with dieback needs tree care to preserve healthy landscape.

Many diverse diseases affect your landscape, shrubs and trees. Identifying these diseases is critical because, not all tree diseases can be controlled. We love to watch things grow when we garden but we must note that not all growth is positive or advantageous to the trees. Some of these growths take energy away from the tree; common examples include water sprouts and suckers. At 72tree.com we often see the damaging effects of tree disease, and in this article, dieback, tree suckers and water sprouts are the disorders we’ll be discussing.

Dieback of a Tree or Its Limbs

In spring as the weather gets warmer, and buds start noticeably leafing out, you might notice that a section or even an entire limb is not leafing out consistent with the rest of the tree. Dieback is a condition in which the ends of the tree branches die. These sections are generally located at the limb tips, but can also be entire limbs or sections of the tree where there will be no leaves. Most times, this is a sign that all is not right with the tree.

Water Sprouts Due to Branch Removal

Water sprouts are dynamic shoots that develop from dormant buds either on large branches or trunks of a tree. They are usually upright and in many cases occur as a result of the removal or trimming of large branches. Heavy pruning may also lead to the production of more sprouts. Tree stress may also result in water sprout growth, but it’s not usually as vibrant as those that occur due to pruning.

Trees should be checked regularly. If you notice new shoots, eliminate them by rubbing them off as they emerge. Large water sprouts can be pruned off close to the trees trunk. Water sprouts can ruin a tree’s shape and they also divert the tree’s energy by blocking air circulation and light. Though not advised, some allow sprouts to grow in the place of missing branches, but it may lead to a reduction in quality of the tree’s ability to bear more fruits. Also, water sprouts are more inclined to promote tears, disease and breaks, as they are generally weaker than other branches.

Tree Suckers

Suckers are un-planned, vegetative growths that stem from a tree’s root system. Suckers grow from rootstock and divert nutrients away from the trees top growth. There isn’t any actual benefit from letting suckers grow because, rootstocks are usually different from the type of tree that you planted (example - a Gala apple tree will not have a Gala apple rootstock).

To find and cut from the base of a sucker, you may have to pull back any ground cover and dig up some soil to fully expose the sucker. Ensure that as much growth as possible is removed to reduce the potential of them popping up again. If they do re-emerge, this simple process will have to be repeated. Although suckers and water sprouts are similar, remember suckers originate from the root or base of the tree.

Tree Disease Prevention and Care

You might be able to deal with a disease that occurs on your trees and shrubs but you ought to consider consulting a local arborist or tree service professional if you are uncertain. The arborist will identify any disease and offer you the best treatment options and the ideal time to care for the tree.

Early spring (during most maintenance pruning) is the best time to remove both water sprouts and tree suckers. However, these unwanted growths sometimes sprout and occur during the growing season, they should be removed as soon as you notice their existence. Your trees will thank you and be fruitful!

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/signs-diseased-tree-dieback-suckers-water-sprouts/

Using Dormant Horticultural Oil to Treat Tree Insect Infestations

The major difference between the newer horticultural oils and past dormant oils is that they are much more refined and they are useable throughout the year. Most horticultural oils are refined from petroleum oil.

The refined oil is combined with an emulsifying agent; this allows the oil to mix with water which makes spraying easier. Originally dormant oils were heavier and less well-refined, however, they have been replaced with light weight, better refined oils that can be applied all year round on foliage without damaging it. The time of application is now why it is referred to as dormant oil and not the properties of the oil.

That said, there are other oils that can be used to deter insects and tree diseases and they are; Mineral oil, summer oil, Supreme oil, Superior oil, Vegetable oil, Cottonseed oil, Soybean oil, and Neem oil. Our www.72tree.com arborist can apply the horticultural oil to treat any insect infestations and diseases you may have. Listed below are the uses, precautions and benefits of the dormant tree oil.

The Use and Application of Horticultural Oil

Horticultural oils are effective, safe and they do not harm useful insects. Spraying should be done before buds swell and can be sprayed even if the buds are slightly swollen. This may damage some of the buds but the advantages overshadow the damage. Here are some benefits of the horticultural oil:

• They smother and kill insects.
• They disrupt the feeding of insects which is important in stopping the spread of plant viruses by aphids.
• They can also be used against powdery mildew.

When you buy concentrated Horticultural spray oil, you will need to dilute the product to create your spray. Some oils require mixing with water, so be cautious and follow the appropriate instructions. When the oil is liquified and sprayed on, the application may appear thin and disappear quickly as it dries. Don’t mistake this and ignore the prescribed application instructions. When applied consistently, you will notice scales falling off and insects avoiding your trees or plants.

Precautions – Oils shouldn’t be used on oil sensitive plants and when temperatures are high (100° F) or very low. Also, if rain is likely to fall or the plant is wet then application should be avoided. Do not apply oils in freezing weather as it can cause the emulsion to produce uneven coverage. Finally, when shoots are growing, oils shouldn’t be sprayed. 

Protection Year Round from Insects and Diseases

During the growing and dormant seasons, protecting your shrubs, ornamentals, vegetables, shades and fruit trees is important. Properly applied horticultural oil can help control and deter spiders, insects, moths, aphids and plant disease from killing your trees, shrubs, vegetables and plants.

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/using-dormant-horticultural-oil-treat-tree-insect-infestations/

5 Common Shrub Species Found in Alpharetta Ga

When speaking of Atlanta suburbs, the city of Alpharetta is sure to steal the conversation. One striking trait in this suburb is the abundance of trees, shrubs and well-manicured yards. While there are dozens of attractive plants we could share, our arborist explains characteristics of 5 shrubs that are sure to impress and perfect for your Alpharetta Ga yard.

Characteristics of 5 Shrubs That Are Ideal for Alpharetta Yards

Plants, trees and shrubs require certain conditions to thrive and grow into healthy specimens. Knowing the watering, sunlight and soil requirements of a shrub will help ensure it develops properly.

Our Alpharetta tree removal and planting experts are available to help you choose the ideal shrubs and trees for your yard. However, these 5 shrub species develop nicely and are commonly planted by residents of Alpharetta.

Rhododendron – With the ability to reach a height of 15 feet or more, your hedge solution is at hand. Rhododendron is the national flower of Nepal – Ask your friends where that is! The conversation alone makes this stunning species worth it!

Planting on the North side of a building – protecting it from morning sunlight is optimal for this species. Overwatering will cause a waterlogged root system that may lead to plant failure, while under watering can also damage these shrubs. Fertilize annually in the fall or early spring for best results.

Blooming from the end of winter through early summer, there is an added bonus to having this shrub. Hummingbirds will be racing through your landscaping attracted to the blooms. Thus, adding one more element of desirability to choosing a Rhododendron.

Florida Anise – With fruit shaped like a star, Florida Anise has been popularly dubbed as Star Anise. This evergreen shrub grows to a whopping 10 to 12 feet in height and 5 to 8 feet wide. It thrives in rich and moist soil being best suited for shade with morning sun. However, this beauty – once established – possesses a high tolerance to drought conditions.

A fun snippet about the Florida Anise is that it protects itself with poisonous aromatics in the foliage deterring animals and insects from making it a meal.

Camellia Japonica – Commonly known as ‘Rose of Winter’ – its Alabama's state flower. With thousands of cultivars having varied colors and forms of flowers, creating diversity in the landscape will be a cinch.

This stunner blooms in winter and early spring and thrives in a semi-shade environment with moderate to regular watering. Given the ideal conditions, just sit back and be amazed at just how beautiful this shrub can be.

Hydrangea – If strength combined with beauty is your aim, the Hydrangea is certainly the right pick for your yard. Well known for its large, circular blooms, it steals the show by staying in bloom from the beginning of spring to late fall. That’s right, while the others are full of nakedness, the Hydrangea keeps putting on a show.

Location is key. You will want to protect your Hydrangeas from strong winds and hot afternoon sun – planting them on the East side of a building will help create a shaded afternoon. Overwatering will cause the roots to rot, killing the shrub. In the beginning, an all purpose slow-release fertilizer are helpful in ensuring a strong start to an incredible shrub!

Those beautiful blooms come in an array of colors including; white, blue, pink lavender and rose – at times with multiple colors on the same shrub. This color variety occurs with the pH level of the soil, however, the white bloom is unaffected by this factor.

Fatsia Japonica – If you are looking to fill a spacious area with an explosion of green, look no further! This evergreen shrub – native to Southern Japan and South Korea – reaches an astounding 10 to 20 feet tall with its leaves spiraling up its branches creating beautiful symmetry.

Medium to full shade with compost rich and moist soil is a winning ticket for the Fatsia Japonica. A semi-protected location is important, as strong winds and excessive sunlight tend to damage the foliage. Fertilize annually with a tree and shrub fertilizer in the spring.

Sometimes referred to as the ‘Paper Plant’, its small white flowers make an appearance in late fall and early winter. Those same flowers give way to a small black fruit. This shrub makes for an excellent conversation piece in a well-structured garden.

Use Shrubs to Improve the Appeal of Your Landscape

In addition to the striking colors, the addition of healthy shrubbery to a landscape cannot be overstated. Properly planted and arranged shrubs will help prevent soil erosion and in many cases, raise the property’s curb appeal!

Whether it’s filling in the gaps or structuring a hedgerow, the aforementioned shrub species are sure to create an impressive and practical landscape. Familiarize yourself with the conditions of your yard, then choose the best suited shrub for a beautiful addition to your landscape.

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/5-common-shrub-species-in-alpharetta-ga/

5 Popular Alpharetta Georgia Shade Trees

If there were ever to be a change to the name of this city it would have to include – ‘Tree Friendly’. Alpharetta Georgia is home to not one or two but three Arboretums! Cogburn Road Park, Webb Bridge Park and Wills Park all provide a walk through amazing native specimens.

Trees have a tendency to provide and support a natural eco-infrastructure. Nesting birds, mischievous squirrels and plant life thriving in the shade of the canopy are a few examples of how trees share their life with their surroundings.

Our Arborists Share the Basic Characteristics of 5 Shade Trees

Red Maple – When Red Maples turn brilliant scarlet in the fall, the song lyric “Goodness, Gracious, Great Balls Of Fire” may come to mind. If color explosions are your autumn heart’s desire, this shade tree is a must have on your list.

Red Maples when mature, can reach upwards of 80 feet, but most mature at 50 feet. These specimens have a canopy spread of up to 40 feet, and display the stereotypical range of fall green, yellow and red hues.

This extremely robust tree has been recognized by the US Forest Service for being eastern North America’s most populous native tree. Next to their fall foliage, their resilient qualities to remain healthy through weather and soil severities play a large part in their popularity.

From low to high altitudes and from swamps to arid soil, Red Maples are able to adapt, which makes them an ideal tree to shade your backyard.

Eastern Redbud – The state tree of Oklahoma reaches 20 to 30 feet in height with a canopy diameter of 25 to 30 feet. The Eastern Redbud has beautiful green leaves, turning to bright yellow in the fall before losing them.

The true show is revealed in the spring. This tree flowers before and with emerging leaves, continuing into early summer. The light to dark pink flowers bloom in clusters, eventually giving way to its fruit. The fruit are flat pea-like pods, with maturation occurring from August through October.

With the reds and yellows fighting for your attention, it would be an epic sight to come across a row of alternating Red Maples and Eastern Redbuds in the fall?

Willow Oak – ‘Weeping Willows’, as they are popularly known, have those mesmerizing leaf laden branches draped towards the ground gently waving in the slightest of breezes.

While highly desirable, the Willow Oak is not an ideal tree for all Alpharetta yards. This species should be discussed with your local tree expert before coming to any conclusions.

With a short trunk and broad canopy, mature trees reach 50 feet high and 40 feet across. The most suitable environments for these species are along riverbanks and ponds where the roots can run freely. 

In their non-stop hunt for water sources, Willows are known for their invasive root systems potentially interrupting sewer and water lines. Preferring full sun, Willows are the first to produce leaves and last to shed them in the fall.

Red Oak Trees – The Red Oak gallantly reaches upwards of 75 feet with an amazing canopy spread of 50 feet.

As they are fast growing, robust and expansive canopy trees, Red Oaks are a piece of perfection in the land of shade trees.

The bark of a mature Oak looks to have wrinkly ridges running up and down. If your potential was to live to be 500 years old, you might develop a few wrinkles too.

All in all, the iconic Red Oak truly is a perfect fit for Alpharetta yards and a perfectly shaded landscape.

Yellow Poplar – This quick to develop tree can reach 160 feet in height, but is ordinarily about 85 feet. Their development is counter-intuitive in that they grow slower and shorter in full sun, and taller in shaded areas.

The Yellow Poplar is the tallest eastern hardwood tree. Like the Red Oak, this shade thrower lives up to 500 years old as well.

Sitting erect, the flower of this amazing tree is greenish yellow with red and orange dashes, with a striking resemblance to a tulip, thus the nickname, ‘Tulip Tree’.

This specimen tree does better in soil with high amounts of organic matter, due to its fragile and fleshy roots. Likewise, it has a poor tolerance to drought.

Outstanding Shade Trees for Your Alpharetta Yard

Trees partner with surrounding vegetation to halt soil erosion and even provide natural fertilization when their fallen leaves decay. The high temperatures during the summer months make shade trees desirable to Alpharetta residents. Once planted, prune your trees so they grow a nice full canopy. With that in mind, make informed specimen selection decisions leading towards a beautiful, balanced and well-shaded landscape.

Visit https://plus.google.com/+72treealpharettatreeremovalservice/about to get our arborists insight about the best shade tree species for your Roswell home or Alpharetta Ga yard.

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/5-popular-alpharetta-ga-shade-trees/

Essential Tools for Tree Care and Gardening

To have a well-maintained lawn or lively garden, you need the right tools. The types of tools you’ll use will be contingent on the size of your garden or yard. The time you spend in your lawn or garden, as well as the amount of money you’re willing to invest in it. These are all factors to consider, and below are the basic tools necessary to upkeep your yard or garden.

Cultivating Tools for Gardening

When it comes to cultivating, gardeners use either power or hand-held tools. The core objective in cultivating is breaking up, aerating, and leveling the soil. Obviously “working the soil” requires effort and is no easy task. The kind of tool you use depends on how much of an effort you’d like to put into your gardening project.

Landscaping Hand Tools

Hand tools consist of spading forks, shovels, trowels, padding forks, diggers and rakes. They can be used to prepare a garden, don’t require excessive strength to operate, and are quite simple to handle. Other hand tools that aren’t critical, but helpful, are pickaxes and mattocks. These hand tools are for harvesting and digging deeper in the soil.

Power Tools

Power tools may cost more than traditional hand tools, but they minimize labor, saving you effort and time. The most important gardening tool is a tiller, which separates and prepares the ground for planting. A tiller will also cut down any lingering debris, as well as help combine compost with fertilizer. If you would rather not buy a tiller, consider renting one, or hiring someone to tile the ground for you.

Tree Cutting and Pruning Tools

If there are small trees, hedges or shrubs on your lawn, you should be using pruning tools. For branches around ¾” in diameter, pruning shears are ideal. Lopping shears are able to handle pruning tree branches as high as 2”. Pole pruners can reach trees as high as 15 feet above ground level. Pruning saws and hedge shears are considered heavy duty equipment and usually purchased by gardening aficionados.

Watering Tools

Plants must be watered regularly to maintain their longevity. Unfortunately, it doesn’t always rain when we need it to. That’s why watering tools are essential. The one tool you can’t neglect is a water hose. Many gardeners use drip irrigation hoses or sprinklers. You also have the option to buy timers for drip hoses or sprinklers.

Gardening without the proper tools can be frustrating. There’s nothing wrong with getting your hands dirty in the backyard, but it can’t hurt to own fundamental tools like shovels, rakes and hoes. Some would say these tools are just as substantial as the trees, dirt and seeds surrounding your landscape.

Visit http://www.72tree.com/tree-cutting-services-in-alpharetta-ga/ for pruning services or expertise about tree trimming, shaping or health issues.

https://plus.google.com/+72treealpharettatreeremovalservice/about

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/essential-tools-for-tree-care-gardening/

Tree Pruning – Why, How and When to Prune Your Trees

Tress help improve the overall look and appeal of your property, but they need to be maintained and pruned regularly for various reasons. Oftentimes the branches have to be trimmed for public safety and equally important, the tree’s health.

Tree Pruning and Why Should I Do It?

There are various reasons to prune a tree, the first of which is safety. Frequently weather affected trees and dead branches fall. These obviously dangerous limbs should be removed to decrease liability. 

Another consideration and reason to prune trees is to remove visual traffic obstructions and low-hanging branches that interfere with a pedestrians walking path.

In residential and commercial settings, trees should be trimmed for building upkeep and preservation. Paint damage and structural damage may occur as a result of limbs rubbing, touching, or an overgrown trunk compromising a structures foundation. Secondly, insects and pests can use these as easy entry points and certain trees can contribute to and harbor mosquitoes.

A counterintuitive concept is that trees should be pruned to boost their development, growth and structural appeal. Healthy trees generally have good foliage density but their interior should not be overcrowded. Fruit trees often undergo structural pruning, which results in helping them cope with the additional weight of the fruits that are produced.

Aesthetics is an obvious and suitable reason to prune trees. Poorly maintained or unsightly trees detract from the appeal of a property. Trimming and pruning are simple methods to improve the visual appeal of a tree and the real property.

If a tree needs to be pruned or removed because it poses a threat, it’s best to contact an arborist georgiaarborist.org/Sys/PublicProfile/246617/62524 or tree removal company. As personal safety is a major concern when dealing with trees, it’s best to hire a professional tree service to properly inspect your trees for damage, pests or disease.

* Note – Check whether your city or local municipality has a tree ordinance or permit process to prune your trees. For example, Take a look at Alpharetta's tree ordinance and permit for removal process.

How to Properly Prune & Cut a Tree

The two basic types of pruning and tree trimming cuts are: "thinning" and "heading" cuts. 

Thinning - removing a limb at the point of its origin or attachment.

In other words, pruning a branch at the point it connects to another branch (or from the trunk). Tree thinning allows a tree less wind resistance, improved air circulation, and less crowding, ultimately improving sunlight penetration.

Heading - as the name suggests, reduce a tree’s height. 

When performing heading cuts, or “topping” the tree, you are cutting lateral and/or terminal branches. Heading cuts promote growth of buds nearest to the cut. Heading cuts may not be best on branches older than a year, so as to avoid encouraging suckers and water sprouts. Likewise, on older trees heading may disfigure and leave a tree susceptible to pests and disease. Topping is not an ideal method of pruning; long-term it may destroy a tree by making it susceptible to rot.

Insects, fungus and bacteria exist in every environment and can be dangerous to a tree. Note that avoiding pruning in warming months is the best way to avoid tree disease and insects from ravishing an otherwise healthy tree.

When is it Best to Prune Trees and Shrubs?

Knowing when to prune a tree depends largely on the goal and objective. As a good rule of thumb, it's best to prune a tree in late winter to early spring when the tree is dormant. Since the tree is mostly inactive during that period, limb removal will not be as stressful to the tree. Also wounds seal better and there's a reduction in pest infestation risk as diseases and insects are inactive.

Late spring and early summer is the worst possible time to trim trees because this is when their leaves expand and the tree’s entire energy source is being given to its new growth. 

Lastly, late summer pruning may encourage new growth. This is bad because it may not have sufficient time to harden and prepare for a potentially harsh winter.

On the other hand, non-flowering shrubs can be pruned as needed to maintain or achieve a specific shape. Flowering shrubs should be pruned as soon as they finish blooming. When pruning shrubs its best to leave the bottoms wider; this technique allows ample sun to get to the bottom of the shrub which prevents the shrub from excessively thinning out.

For this full pruning article visit http://www.72tree.com/tree-pruning-why-how-when-its-best-to-prune-your-trees/